Last weekend I had the good fortune to attend a tea class with Melanie and Forest of Zuo Wang, a tea purveyor based here in Portland. Melanie and Forest work with master tea teachers to import high quality Chinese teas. We went through a selection of their teas, exploring the sourcing, history, characteristics, and application of each. Melanie and Forest are very knowledgeable, and I learned a lot.
What struck me the most was their white tea from old Yunnan trees. I've been a tea drinker my whole life. I first encountered white tea perhaps two decades ago. I periodically run into people who love it. Every time I tried white tea, I was disappointed, and I didn't understand the hullaballoo. When the class began with a white tea tasting, I was prepared to be unimpressed. However, I was blown away. I loved that tea. I wanted to marry that tea. That tea made me feel things I have never felt before.
Previous white teas I've tried have been all aroma, but no flavor. No mouthfeel, no taste, just... hot water. Aromatic hot water. Meh! But this tea was magical. It was thick. It was aromatic. It was savory. This white tea, this tea not rolled at all, packed amazing richness and flavor! What is the difference? Perhaps I had not tasted very good quality white tea before. It was sure priced like good quality white tea, though. But Zuo Wang's white tea comes from old trees. Really old trees. Perhaps that is the reason the stately majesty comes through. Perhaps with age, the tea drops its dependence on processing to be a companionable beverage. Perhaps these grand old masters have no need of our fussing and tending and tweaking. They are incredible just the way they are.
Tip of the hat to Zuo Wang. Here is a link to their site.

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