I am generally a supporter of the movement toward organic agriculture. While the research doesn't show much in the way of nutritional differences between organic and conventional foods, organic farming methods are indisputably better for soils and the people who work them. That said, the organic tea market in the last 20 years has left a lot to be desired. Organic teas, in my opinion, have lagged far behind their conventional counterparts in delivering flavor. Organic teas tend to be weak, and lacking in complexity.
I've had this conversation with tea friends. Many of them say they cannot tell the difference in flavor between organic and conventional. A few, however, agree with me. Some choose to still buy organic teas as a show of support; some stick with conventional out of preference for the flavor. I've pondered why organic teas just don't deliver flavor. Tea in general should have little need of modern chemicals, as long as it is grown in suitable soils and climates. My favorite theory was organic certification was too expensive, or just a hassle, for many established tea producers to justify the investment, even if they are using organic methods. US organic certification is notoriously expensive, effectively preventing many small producers from claiming a status they have earned. I thought perhaps organic certification was a strategy of new brands attempting to carve out market share in western countries, where organic products command premium prices, and many people want to buy organic. I speculated that new companies may not have access to the best crops, the best manufacturing, and the best tea masters, thus resulting in products that are somewhat lacking in flavor. My idea was, with time, these companies would mature, become established in the eyes of the world tea community, and have access to better product and processes.
I don't know if my ideas are accurate, but this organic green tea from Japan really impressed me. It was given to me by friends who live in Oita, on the island of Kyushu, where it was grown.
I was prepared for weak, flat tea without interest. What I got instead was a very respectable Japanese green tea. While I can't read the label well enough to know exactly what it is, I suspect it is a sencha. It is at the sweeter end of the sencha spectrum, with lovely color and aroma. It gently clings to the tongue as sencha should. I do not know how strict organic labeling is in Japan. Maybe there are huge loopholes. Maybe it is incredibly strict. But I am truly impressed with the quality of this organic Kyushu tea. This tea gives me hope for the future of certified organic tea.
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